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With the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik, color has found its way into the traditional German manufacturer. Whether you like it or not, the three-hand watch with the light green dial simply catches your eye. In this watch review, I found out what surprises the Turin Automatik has in store for you aside from its design….
Always listen to your customers!
Bruno Söhnle, named after its founder and one of Glashütte’s prestigious watch brands, is now launching the Turin, a classic three-hand watch, as an automatic version and in four interesting dial colors.
The genesis behind the Turin is actually quite simple and accordingly quickly explained. According to the company’s own information, they have been frequently represented at end customer trade shows in the recent past. The contact to the buyers and their wishes were decisive for the development of an automatic version of the Turin, which was previously only a quartz watch as the Turin Big II. Dario Laurin Bär from Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA analyzed the company’s own product range. He said that men’s watches with a diameter of between 40 and 44 millimeters were primarily represented here.
So, in combination with customer feedback, the target was clearly defined. A smaller watch was needed. The Turin Automatik measures 39.50 millimeters in diameter. This extends the collection downwards in terms of size, without stepping out of line too much, but instead blending harmoniously into the image of the previous models. Another pro argument for the existence of the Turin Automatik is its unisex suitability. With its compact case, the timepiece is also perfectly suited as a ladies’ watch – at least in theory.
Why this dial color was a smart move
In today’s watch review, I took a closer look at whether what was thought up in theory also works in practice. There are a total of four dial variants of the Turin Automatik, two of which were sent to me by Bruno Söhnle. These are the references 17-12230-440 with green dial and 17-12230-842 with beige dial. The former shall be the main focus today. While the understated light beige echoes the brand’s corporate identity color, the light green dial variant is much louder, more extroverted, and more mismatched. Rich, dark shades of green have become an integral part of manufacturers’ collections. Such a shade of green is also available with the reference 17-12230-440. A fourth watch with a gray dial (reference number 17-12230-840) completes the series.
However, the bright, self-confident green of my test watch is different – a shade that you have to actively search for if you want to buy or wear such a watch. Accordingly, the reference 17-12230-440 remains in the mind – whether voluntarily or not. According to Bruno Söhnle, this was also a decisive reason why the choice fell on the unusual shade. In the jeweler’s window, the watch stands out in the jungle of dark blue, black and white dials. And even if you don’t like light green at all, you’ll inevitably engage with the Turin Automatik and possibly the other references as well. Light green: a clever move.
The Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik on the wrist
On the wrist, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik confirms what it promised in the first pictures. The green hue stands out without the watch seeming tasteless at any point. This is due to the sense of style that the family-owned brand from Glashütte is known for. A fashion trend is one thing – it comes and goes. Good style is timeless. And the Turin Automatik undoubtedly possesses it – even with the grass-green dial.
Before unpacking, I was particularly curious about the small diameter of the case. Now – on the wrist – I really like the Turin with its compact dimensions. Since the dial extends almost to the edge of the case and only leaves room for a narrow, beveled bezel, you wouldn’t even think the watch could be smaller than 40 millimeters.
By the way, I let my wife try on the beige sister model. Pretty quickly, we were both of the same opinion that the timepiece would also work without any problems as a ladies’ watch. Likewise, as a men’s watch on my wrist. Its promise to be unisex, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik has thus already once redeemed.
Details of the case
With a case diameter of 39.50 millimeters, the Turin sits quite flat on the wrist with a height of only 11.80 millimeters, which – in my opinion – looks very sporty. And to complete the bare figures: the watch weighs 137 grams.
Anyone who appreciates excellent craftsmanship will be delighted with the case of the Turin. It’s made of classic stainless steel and features polished flanks, a polished bezel, and matte horns – an exciting combination. The case finish also appeals to me. You can tell that Bruno Söhnle is in the premium segment with the Turin Automatik. With a screw-down crown and a screw-down case back, the three-hand watch has a maximum water resistance of 10 bar. Contact with water is thus permissible in moderation. You can swim or wash your hands without hesitation. Before diving, however, you should urgently take off the Turin.
For better readability of the dial and greater longevity of the watch, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial.
How the movement becomes a atelier caliber
Let’s move on to my personal highlight: the movement. Already from the presentation, I am taken. Bruno Söhnle has embedded a circular viewing window in the screw-down case back, which takes up a lot of space and puts the automatic movement on full display. The company from Glashütte itself speaks of an atelier caliber. This refers to a movement that has been refined by Bruno Söhnle itself.
In the base, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik is powered by a Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which in turn is identical in construction to the famous ETA 2824. In terms of performance, everything here remains in conformity with the series. Fully wound, the caliber has a power reserve of 38 hours. Bruno Söhnle’s modifications are more of an aesthetic nature. In the watch photographs, you can see the attention to detail and precision with which the Glashütte brand proceeds. For example, you can find a perlage on the main plate, the gear train bridge or the automatic bridge. The screws are thermally blued at about 280 °Celsius and are real eye-catchers. Bruno Söhnle also builds the rotor itself in-house.
Reasons enough to give the movement a new name: the SW200-1 becomes an atelier caliber BS 175. Bruno Söhnle makes intelligent use of its informative booklet out of the box and explains the different atelier calibers, their base calibers, key figures, modifications and operations very clearly. I also want to emphasize this positively.
Dial and bracelet of the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik
Four functions drive the atelier caliber: Date, minute, second and hour. The respective displays can be read quickly and easily. The dial is minimalist and uncluttered. It is structured by an index ring, here in white on green and in the sister model with the reference 17-12230-842 in black on beige. Hands and indices are covered with luminous material, which makes the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik more functional and also allows it to be used in the dark.
The Turin Automatik is worn on an elegant, five-link stainless steel bracelet, which is a great visual match for the watch and makes it look even more valuable. A folding clasp with a safety bar guarantees a good hold. The lug width is 20 millimeters.
My conclusion about the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik
Except for the curved case shape and the delicate stainless steel bracelet, the Turin Automatik has little in common with the related Turin II Big. While the latter has a quartz movement and makes a strict distinction between men’s and women’s sizes, the Turin Automatik rethinks this and dissolves the separation. The new three-hand watch from Glashütte doesn’t really care who wears it on their wrist. Visually, it cuts a fine figure, remains classic, but can also sometimes break out of the familiar pattern, as evidenced by the green reference 17-12230-440. In my opinion, this is a successful balancing act between tradition and the new.
The technical highlight is without a doubt the modified movement, even if the good workmanship and choice of materials don’t have to hide behind it. The only question that remains is which dial to choose. Both references presented here cost 1,490.00 euros.
The following links will take you to the respective references in the Bruno Söhnle store and other exciting content in my blog.