Auch verfügbar auf Deutsch

With the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik, color has found its way into the traditional German manufacturer. Whether you like it or not, the three-hand watch with the light green dial simply catches your eye. In this watch review, I found out what surprises the Turin Automatik has in store for you aside from its design….

YouTube

By loading the video, you agree to YouTube’s privacy policy.
Learn more

Load video

Full Video Review, Hands-on, Unboxing, …

Always listen to your customers!

Bruno Söhnle, named after its founder and one of Glashütte’s prestigious watch brands, is now launching the Turin, a classic three-hand watch, as an automatic version and in four interesting dial colors.

The genesis behind the Turin is actually quite simple and accordingly quickly explained. According to the company’s own information, they have been frequently represented at end customer trade shows in the recent past. The contact to the buyers and their wishes were decisive for the development of an automatic version of the Turin, which was previously only a quartz watch as the Turin Big II. Dario Laurin Bär from Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA analyzed the company’s own product range. He said that men’s watches with a diameter of between 40 and 44 millimeters were primarily represented here. 

Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

So, in combination with customer feedback, the target was clearly defined. A smaller watch was needed. The Turin Automatik measures 39.50 millimeters in diameter. This extends the collection downwards in terms of size, without stepping out of line too much, but instead blending harmoniously into the image of the previous models. Another pro argument for the existence of the Turin Automatik is its unisex suitability. With its compact case, the timepiece is also perfectly suited as a ladies’ watch – at least in theory.

Why this dial color was a smart move

In today’s watch review, I took a closer look at whether what was thought up in theory also works in practice. There are a total of four dial variants of the Turin Automatik, two of which were sent to me by Bruno Söhnle. These are the references 17-12230-440 with green dial and 17-12230-842 with beige dial. The former shall be the main focus today. While the understated light beige echoes the brand’s corporate identity color, the light green dial variant is much louder, more extroverted, and more mismatched. Rich, dark shades of green have become an integral part of manufacturers’ collections. Such a shade of green is also available with the reference 17-12230-440. A fourth watch with a gray dial (reference number 17-12230-840) completes the series.

READ MORE:  OVD Blue Moon Europa Review
Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

However, the bright, self-confident green of my test watch is different – a shade that you have to actively search for if you want to buy or wear such a watch. Accordingly, the reference 17-12230-440 remains in the mind – whether voluntarily or not. According to Bruno Söhnle, this was also a decisive reason why the choice fell on the unusual shade. In the jeweler’s window, the watch stands out in the jungle of dark blue, black and white dials. And even if you don’t like light green at all, you’ll inevitably engage with the Turin Automatik and possibly the other references as well. Light green: a clever move.

The Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik on the wrist

On the wrist, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik confirms what it promised in the first pictures. The green hue stands out without the watch seeming tasteless at any point. This is due to the sense of style that the family-owned brand from Glashütte is known for. A fashion trend is one thing – it comes and goes. Good style is timeless. And the Turin Automatik undoubtedly possesses it – even with the grass-green dial.

Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

Before unpacking, I was particularly curious about the small diameter of the case. Now – on the wrist – I really like the Turin with its compact dimensions. Since the dial extends almost to the edge of the case and only leaves room for a narrow, beveled bezel, you wouldn’t even think the watch could be smaller than 40 millimeters. 

By the way, I let my wife try on the beige sister model. Pretty quickly, we were both of the same opinion that the timepiece would also work without any problems as a ladies’ watch. Likewise, as a men’s watch on my wrist. Its promise to be unisex, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik has thus already once redeemed. 

Details of the case

With a case diameter of 39.50 millimeters, the Turin sits quite flat on the wrist with a height of only 11.80 millimeters, which – in my opinion – looks very sporty. And to complete the bare figures: the watch weighs 137 grams.

READ MORE:  SDC OceanRider Silky Grey Watch Review
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

Anyone who appreciates excellent craftsmanship will be delighted with the case of the Turin. It’s made of classic stainless steel and features polished flanks, a polished bezel, and matte horns – an exciting combination. The case finish also appeals to me. You can tell that Bruno Söhnle is in the premium segment with the Turin Automatik. With a screw-down crown and a screw-down case back, the three-hand watch has a maximum water resistance of 10 bar. Contact with water is thus permissible in moderation. You can swim or wash your hands without hesitation. Before diving, however, you should urgently take off the Turin. 

For better readability of the dial and greater longevity of the watch, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial. 

How the movement becomes a atelier caliber

Let’s move on to my personal highlight: the movement. Already from the presentation, I am taken. Bruno Söhnle has embedded a circular viewing window in the screw-down case back, which takes up a lot of space and puts the automatic movement on full display. The company from Glashütte itself speaks of an atelier caliber. This refers to a movement that has been refined by Bruno Söhnle itself.

Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

In the base, the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik is powered by a Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which in turn is identical in construction to the famous ETA 2824. In terms of performance, everything here remains in conformity with the series. Fully wound, the caliber has a power reserve of 38 hours. Bruno Söhnle’s modifications are more of an aesthetic nature. In the watch photographs, you can see the attention to detail and precision with which the Glashütte brand proceeds. For example, you can find a perlage on the main plate, the gear train bridge or the automatic bridge. The screws are thermally blued at about 280 °Celsius and are real eye-catchers. Bruno Söhnle also builds the rotor itself in-house.

Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

Reasons enough to give the movement a new name: the SW200-1 becomes an atelier caliber BS 175. Bruno Söhnle makes intelligent use of its informative booklet out of the box and explains the different atelier calibers, their base calibers, key figures, modifications and operations very clearly. I also want to emphasize this positively.

READ MORE:  Atlantic Worldmaster Original Review 53654.41.65S

Dial and bracelet of the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik

Four functions drive the atelier caliber: Date, minute, second and hour. The respective displays can be read quickly and easily. The dial is minimalist and uncluttered. It is structured by an index ring, here in white on green and in the sister model with the reference 17-12230-842 in black on beige. Hands and indices are covered with luminous material, which makes the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik more functional and also allows it to be used in the dark. 

Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

The Turin Automatik is worn on an elegant, five-link stainless steel bracelet, which is a great visual match for the watch and makes it look even more valuable. A folding clasp with a safety bar guarantees a good hold. The lug width is 20 millimeters.

My conclusion about the Bruno Söhnle Turin Automatik

Except for the curved case shape and the delicate stainless steel bracelet, the Turin Automatik has little in common with the related Turin II Big. While the latter has a quartz movement and makes a strict distinction between men’s and women’s sizes, the Turin Automatik rethinks this and dissolves the separation. The new three-hand watch from Glashütte doesn’t really care who wears it on their wrist. Visually, it cuts a fine figure, remains classic, but can also sometimes break out of the familiar pattern, as evidenced by the green reference 17-12230-440. In my opinion, this is a successful balancing act between tradition and the new. 

Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440
Photo © 2023 by WATCHDAVID® David Drilling – All rights reserved

The technical highlight is without a doubt the modified movement, even if the good workmanship and choice of materials don’t have to hide behind it. The only question that remains is which dial to choose. Both references presented here cost 1,490.00 euros.

The following links will take you to the respective references in the Bruno Söhnle store and other exciting content in my blog.

More about the Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA and the Turin Automatik

The reference 17-12230-842 in the store

The reference 17-12230-440 in the store

Watch photography

Gallery Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440

Gallery Bruno Söhnle Glashütte/SA Turin Automatik 17-12230-440

Technical Details

NameTurin Automatik

Reference number17-12230-440 (light green dial)

BrandBruno Söhnle

Categorydress watches

Price from1,490.00 euros

Warranty2 years

Case Material316L stainless steel

Diameter39.50 mm

High11.80 mm

Watch Glassanti-reflective coating / Sapphire Crystal

Watch TypeAutomatic

Waterproof10 bar (100 m / 330 ft)

Movement NameBS 175 atelier caliber (base: Sellita SW200-1)

Power Reserve38 hours

Functionsdate / hour / Minute / second

Diallight green

Indicesdashes

Special Featureshands filled with luminous material / indices filled with luminous material

Bezelgrey / stainless steel

Bracelet Colorgrey

Bracelet Material316L stainless steel

Clasp316L stainless steel / folding clasp

Auch verfügbar auf Deutsch