Also available in: Deutsch
The Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit promises to be a stylish wristwatch with an intelligent world time function – perfect for anyone who loves to travel. In the following review, you’ll find out whether and, above all, how it achieves this.
Traveling with a GMT watch
The Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit (which is german for ‚world time‘) was already presented at the Baselworld 2018. The name Teutonia as a whole stands for noble business watches in the world of the Saxon watch manufacturer Mühle-Glashütte, which nevertheless carry the classic genes of the watchmaker, functionality and precision. Now a GMT watch is to expand the portfolio of the Glashütte-based traditional manufacturer. With the name Weltzeit, it is in principle a timepiece with GMT function. Nevertheless, there are important differences. A good world time or GMT watch is an important wrist companion, especially for business people who are often on the road. After all, who always wants to pull out the cell phone just to check whether a business partner in distant New York is still asleep and should rather not be called? And anyway, what is a smartphone against a chic accessory on the wrist?
Noticeably different – with a city ring
The design alone is different from ordinary GMT watches and makes the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit stand out at first glance. Somehow, you feel reminded of a measuring instrument. The dial in a rich dark blue tone consists of an inner and an outer ring. Four hands tick on the dial and want to show me the time of any time zone in the world. How does that work? More about that later. On the bezel, the most important cities are arranged according to time zones. Between London and Cairo, Glashütte can’t be missing, right?
Otherwise, you’ll notice that the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit is related to the other Teutonia models by Mühle. I already know the typical dark blue dial from the Teutonia II Kleine Sekunde, a close relative. At first glance, you can recognize the quality by Mühle. The case components, their materials, the light brown leather strap, the dial – everything looks neatly finished. You should expect nothing less from Mühle.
With a diameter of 41 millimeters, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit is in the midfield among men’s watches. For a chic business watch, this is a well-chosen size. It therefore also looks extremely coherent with a jacket and shirt. Not too big or too small, tasteful, neither too inconspicuous nor too extravagant. That’s exactly how it should be. And what ultimately sets the Teutonia II Weltzeit apart from the other business watches is its design with the clever world time function.
How to read the world time with a Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit
As befits a world time watch, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit has two indices. An hour index, which shows the local time and an internal 24-hour index, which shows the time in a second, arbitrarily selectable time zone. The index at 9 o’clock has a rose gold plating. The world time now always corresponds to the location whose arrow matches the rose gold marker at 9 o’clock. To keep local and world time apart, the world time hand also has a corresponding overlay in the same color. Using the crown at 2 o’clock, you set the desired world time by turning until the location of the time you are looking for matches the 9 o’clock marker. The rose gold hand now shows exactly this time in the inner 24-hour indiex.
All of this may sound quite daunting at first reading. An example illustrates it. As I am writing this sentence here and looking at my Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit, it is 18:58 according to Central European Time, which is my local time. How fitting that the New York I just mentioned is also on the bezel. So I turn the crown at 2 o’clock until New York is at 9 o’clock with its arrow. The rose gold hand now shows me the time on the inner 24-hour index. It’s 1 pm. New York is 6 hours behind – so that fits! If you are traveling and want to know the time of your home town, you proceed in the same way.
All time zones at a glance – with the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit
The second function clearly distinguishes the Teutonia II Weltzeit from other GMT watches. This is because the unique city ring on the bezel allows all time zones to be read simultaneously. Let’s take our example from before again. It is now 7 p.m. in Germany, Central Europe. To find out the times in all 24 time zones, I synchronize the city ring with my local time. So: Turn Glashütte (Germany) to 9 o’clock! World and local time are thus identical. Now I can simply move from Glashütte on the city ring from city to city and thus from hour to hour. Glashütte 7 pm, London 6 pm, Azores 5 pm and so on.
At first, this may all be a bit confusing. From experience, I can say that the more often you set time zones, the more proficient you become at using the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit. Yeah, daylight saving time makes the whole process much more difficult. Nevertheless, in this day and age, there are plenty of other ways to help. However, the world time function of the Teutonia II is a quite simple as well as ingenious mechanical instrument, which fascinates its wearer with these functions.
Night blue and nobly finished – the dial
The way Mühle-Glashütte packages the functions of its Teutonia II Weltzeit in the design is terrific. Compared to its sister model Teutonia II Kleine Sekunde and the other business watches from Mühle-Glashütte, it is noticeable that the dial is much more lively and less reduced. However, for a GMT watch, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit comes across as comparatively minimalist and plain.
The deep blue of the dial is once again very well done by the Saxon manufacture. Characteristic is the “bar” within the 24-hour index, which breaks the dynamic ray cut and visually structures the dial. Despite the amount of information, the design manages to make you familiar with how to read the times within a few minutes. This is the functionality that I appreciate at Mühle.
The quality is impeccable. This is primarily due to the elaborate production process used to make the dial in and around the Glashütte workshops. For example, the indices are applied and the hands are bright nickel-plated. A rectangular date window is recessed at 3 o’clock.
The case oft the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit
Mühle embeds the dial of the Teutonia II Weltzeit in a noble and simple case. With a diameter of 41 millimeters, it has a height of 13 millimeters. The manufacturer uses durable stainless steel, whose surfaces are both ground and polished. The two crowns sit at 2 and 4 o’clock and are fluted, which noticeably improves the operation for setting the time.
Durable and robust sapphire is used for the watch crystal. On the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit, the sapphire crystal is slightly domed, which gives the watch a classic and noble design. Those who visit the beach as well as the office on their numerous trips will appreciate the additional anti-reflective coating, which allows good readability even in bright sunlight.
On the back, the case back is screwed down six times. With this, Mühle guarantees water resistance up to 10 bar/ATM. 100 meters of water depth would even be possible as a result. However, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit is not a diver’s watch, but a timepiece that is intended to shine as a daily rocker in everyday life. And so there are no concerns with water contact like swimming.
The individual inscriptions on the caseback are neatly engraved. In the center is the highlight of the Teutonia II Weltzeit: the viewing window with a view of the movement, whose individual components turn reliably.
Refined by Mühle: the movement
The movement is a comfortable Swiss-made automatic movement. However, this SW 330-1 has been thoroughly reworked by Mühle-Glashütte to form a perfect and reliable unit with the other components of the Teutonia II Weltzeit.
The “upgrade” also includes the patented woodpecker neck regulation, which Mühle developed back in 2003 and has become famous for. The woodpecker neck regulator protects the sensitive interior of the Teutonia II Weltzeit from external influences such as shocks and impacts. It also regulates the movement. The most visible change, however, is the in-house rotor, which bears the inscription “Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte”. Various other surface finishes complete the overall picture.
In addition to the functions for stop-seconds as well as date quick correction, the automatic movement offers 42 hours of power reserve. This is perfectly sufficient for everyday use.
Leather or stainless steel? The bracelet
After all, a real business watch is nothing without a good bracelet, isn’t it? With the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit, the customer can choose between a comfortable crocodile leather strap or an elegant stainless steel bracelet. I chose the first option, because I already liked the contrast between the midnight blue dial and the reddish brown leather strap of the Teutonia II Small Seconds. Both straps have a double folding clasp made of stainless steel, which is decorated with another engraving.
In my opinion a big plus for the leather strap is its comfortable wear. Mühle bracelets are very uncomplicated in this regard. I have never had any problems. This has not changed in the last few days with the Teutonia II Weltzeit on my wrist.
Conclusion about the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit: a good business watch with the special extra
All businessmen and travelers among you get from me the clear recommendation to take a closer look at the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit in the near future. Because this timepiece has the great potential to become a daily rocker. Quality and design are made to wear this watch every day on the wrist. No matter when, no matter where! There are simply endless outfit combinations. This makes the Teutonia II Weltzeit suitable for many occasions, but it is especially recommended as a business watch.
Because if you’re really on the road a lot, you’ll quickly appreciate the world time functions. This special extra is what many other watches lack and makes the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Weltzeit so unique.
In terms of price, the Teutonia II Weltzeit ranges from 2400 to 2500 euros. That depends on which bracelet you choose. You will pay the surcharge for the stainless steel version.