Ralf Tech is launching the Académie in an Automatic Manufacture First Edition. The classic dress watch from the diving watch specialist is limited to just 22 pieces per dial color! However, the real special feature is under the shiny silver case. An automatic movement from the Pequignet manufacture is at work here – is the Académie finally French through and through?
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The Académie has been delighting customers and fans of the French brand Ralf Tech since 2019. This may well be due to its classic and timeless look. It is pretty much the exact opposite of watches such as the WRV or THE BEAST, both of which are professional operational devices for naval special forces. I have also included the latter in my list of the 18 best diving watches2022 & 2023. And then the Académie comes around the corner, which at first glance seems to have nothing in common with the sporty-technical brand from France – or perhaps it does?
Académie combines French elegance with the classic art of watchmaking. Founder Frank Huyghe, a former combat diver, has incorporated his past into the Ralf Tech brand and its models. The Académie tells a very special story, as the model is a tribute to the founder’s grandfather and his love of mechanical wristwatches. In this respect, the classic watch fits perfectly into the French premium manufacturer’s collection.
Just over a year ago, I already had two examples of the series, which has been available since 2019, in my hands. The Ralf Tech Académie Pirates Shadow and Royale Blue were both beautiful, classic and timeless watches with a gorgeous bronze case, but also had one small drawback: the movement. Ralf Tech is otherwise known for his technological innovations, such as the hybrid movements with a power reserve of 12 hours, that are extremely accurate. However, Ralf Tech previously equipped his Académie with a movement from Seiko.
Don’t take offense. I am a fan of the Seiko NH35, which is also highly regarded among watchmakers. Its advantages are obvious. With solid technology and a versatile design, it is extremely robust and reliable. And precisely because it has been produced millions of times, there is a high probability that the watchmaker around the corner can service and repair the movement. At the same time, the production costs can be invested in other components such as the high-quality glassbox sapphire crystal. However, Seiko’s NH35 with its accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per day does not really fit the brand profile of the luxurious and tech-savvy niche product Ralf Tech.
The new manufacture movement from Pequignet in detail
That is why Frank Huyghe has now realized his long-cherished dream of equipping the Académie with an automatic manufacture movement. Ralf Tech has found a worthy successor to the Japanese movement, which is probably better suited to the French dress watch. Ralf Tech teamed up with Pequignet for the limited special edition model. The independent French company, based in Morteau on the border with Switzerland, produces luxury watches and manufacture movements. An automatic movement was developed here, which now goes by the name of RTM001. The beginning of a new era?
According to the figures, all the expectations that customers had of Ralf Tech after the discontinuation of the NH35 have now been exceeded. Hold on tight: the RTM001 has an overall height of just 4.2 millimeters. The technically outstanding feature is the innovative gearing. According to Ralf Tech, it optimizes the efficiency of the movement and is designed to minimize wear on its components. I am impressed by the key figures of the new automatic movement. With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and an optimized escapement, the movement has a power reserve of no less than 77 hours when fully wound! Thanks to the integrated stop second with temporary standstill of the second hand, the time displayed on the dial can be synchronized to the second with an atomic clock.
The RTM001 was developed in France and, according to Ralf Tech, manufactured with components 72% of which come from France. You could say that the DNA of the Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition is now French through and through.
The Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition on the wrist
The packaging measures 25 x 30 centimetres and contains a high-quality felt case that you can always take with you when you travel. I bought the Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition for this watch review with both dial colors, black and cream.
With a diameter of 41 millimeters, the Académie is not a small dress watch at all. I have a small wrist, but the watch doesn’t look too big on it.
The Académie is worn on a black alligator leather strap that has been sewn by hand and is particularly soft to the touch on the inside. Without exaggerating, the Académie is extremely comfortable to wear in everyday life! Alternatively, you can also wear the dress watch with the included black rubber strap, which is suitable for diving. However, as I would never wear the Académie when diving, let alone during sporting activities, I will limit myself to the alligator strap. The width between the lugs is 22 millimetres, and the bracelets taper slightly towards the pin buckle.
The case of the Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition in detail
I think the workmanship of the case, which is made of 316L stainless steel, is great. Its surface has been given a polished finish. The look matches the classic feel that you get when wearing the Académie. Micro-scratches are naturally more visible than with a matt finish. For this reason, the Ralf Tech Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition remains a candidate for more elegant occasions in my eyes.
The characteristic, thick glass-box sapphire crystal is something we have come to expect from Ralf Tech. It was given an anti-reflective coating on both sides during production.
In the middle of the screw-down case back with a polished finish is a large, circular sapphire crystal viewing window. It offers a view of the minimalist movement. Your serial number is also engraved on the case back.
With a water resistance of 50 meters, the Académie is at least splash-proof. So if I were you, I wouldn’t take this watch into the water. And let’s be honest: with its polished case surfaces, this elegant three-hand watch feels much more at home at evening events or in the office than on the beach.
Incidentally, the dials with the elegant Dauphine hands are lacquered and polished by hand. This gives them an extraordinary shine.
My conclusion on the Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition
At last, the Académie is powered by the movement it deserves! Ralf Tech has given the “black sheep” of the collection a high-quality caliber from Pequignet. It achieves outstanding performance on the test bench. I really appreciate Seiko’s NH35. However, in my opinion, this premium watch deserves a different level. The Académie has now become a fully-fledged Ralf Tech!
What hurts on the one hand, but also adds to the “want to have” effect of this watch, is its limited nature. Both dial colors are limited to 22 pieces each. To be one of only 22 people in the world to wear my watch is an exciting prospect.
Given the extremely high quality and the exclusive automatic movement, I don’t think the price that Ralf Tech is asking for the new First Edition is that expensive. In my store, you can purchase both dial variants for the recommended retail price of 3,300.00 euros. So it pays to be quick!
You can find all the important links to the watch below.
More about Ralf Tech and the Académie Automatic Manufacture First Edition
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