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The King Seiko VANAC is back! The Japanese watch manufacturer is reactivating a model that was discontinued almost 50 years ago. In this watch test, I find out whether the comeback story is a success and whether the new VANAC is more than just a copy…
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Under the night sky of Japan
It’s a comeback in two respects. On the one hand, because after more than a year and a half, I can finally present a Seiko to you again. Most recently, I had the pleasure of extensively testing the Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation GMT. On the other hand – and this is much more important – a legendary Seiko watch series is celebrating its long-awaited comeback. Almost 50 years after its discontinuation in 1976, the Seiko VANAC returns. The extroverted, avant-garde-looking watch, which was specially developed for the Japanese market, is still remembered by fans and enthusiasts of the brand decades later thanks to its edgy design. No watch looked like this, not even another King Seiko!
The successor to this highly coveted collector’s item is once again dedicated to Tokyo – the capital of Japan and the largest city in the world. According to Seiko, the shades of purple and gold that adorn the dial reflect the nuances of twilight in Tokyo’s sky. Gold stands for the sunrise and purple for the beginning of the vibrant nightlife, when the rapidly changing lights of the oversized LED panels in Shibuya Square are reflected by the light haze in the atmosphere. The facades of the skyscrapers in turn reflect the natural and artificial light. It is a complex interplay of different observations that VANAC wishes to combine. This desire is also evident in the name of the elegant dress watch. The abbreviation VANAC stands for Vibrant, Active, Novel, Alternative and Comfortable.
The King Seiko VANAC therefore provides enough arguments to warrant a closer look. The only question is whether Seiko will manage to add something – yes, exactly, something new – to the new edition. Will the VANAC accurately capture the Tokyo of the 2020s?
All dial colours at a glance
With the reference SLA083 called ‘Twilight’, I am wearing perhaps the most avant-garde and extroverted watch in the new King Seiko VANAC class. Combined with the angular case block and the golden indices, my wrist even has a touch of retrofuturism and cyberpunk about it. The other dial colours ‘Midnight’ (SLA085, could even be my personal favourite), “Sunrise” (SLA087), ‘Limited Edition’ (SLA089) and ‘Seiko Boutique Exclusive Edition’ (SLA091) are certainly a little more muted, but no less original.
The V-shaped index at 12 o’clock and the horizontal stripes that cover the dial are also characteristic features of the striking design language. This watch breaks with conventional European design norms – and that’s what makes it so exciting! Nevertheless, I can easily imagine the King Seiko VANAC in a variety of settings: whether worn with a suit or more casually as part of a casual wardrobe – Seiko’s new premium watch is an all-purpose weapon!
The Twilight, which Seiko kindly sent me on the occasion of this watch review, comes in a grey box with a grey watch roll – very minimalist. Instead of genuine leather, Seiko now uses vegan, recycled materials to achieve its sustainability goals.
As if milled from an angular block – the striking case
Seiko adopts the strict geometric lines, but dimensions the case in line with contemporary wearing habits. With a diameter of 41 millimetres and a length of 45 millimetres between the lugs, the new King Seiko VANAC is larger than the vintage original and is very comfortable to wear on my 17 mm wrist. The case height of 14.30 millimetres is decent, but is hardly noticeable in everyday life and fits harmoniously into the overall picture. The high-quality stainless steel has a partly matt, partly brushed case finish, which means that the VANAC always looks different and special depending on the light.
The old bevelled glass of the original, an angular cut mineral glass, gives way to a high-quality sapphire glass with a mirror finish on the inside. Fans are looking at the changes with one eye laughing and one eye crying. On the one hand, the characteristic reflections are missing. On the other hand, the dial is now easier to read. For me, the advantage of the new sapphire crystal clearly outweighs the disadvantages. However, I am not a King Seiko lover from the very beginning.
Seiko certifies that the case of the King Seiko VANAC is water-resistant up to 10 bar or 100 metres. This makes the chic dress watch ideal for swimming and snorkelling, even if I would advise against professional diving. Nevertheless, the vintage VANAC couldn’t offer water resistance either!
I really like the integrated stainless steel bracelet, whose design is probably the clearest reference to the origins of the King Seiko VANAC. Many watches from the 1970s that are (again) available today, such as the Royal Oak, feature this stylistic element.
One of Seiko’s best movements ever?
Unlike many Asian watches of its time, the original King Seiko VANAC did not have a quartz movement, but a mechanical movement. Seiko had introduced the world’s first quartz watch in 1969 with the Astron 35SQ. At that time, however, the King Seiko belonged to the upper class within the Japanese company, roughly comparable to the Grand Seiko today. At the beginning of the 1970s, reliability, precision and luxury were obviously still attributes that were more associated with a mechanical watch than a quartz watch.
In 2025, the King Seiko VANAC features a modern automatic movement. The 8L45 is not only inferior on paper to well-known entry-level calibres such as the Seiko NH35. With a power reserve of 72 hours, it is extremely durable and, with a maximum accuracy of +10/-5 seconds per day, also very precise. Technically closely related to the Grand Seiko calibre 9S55, it is produced in small series instead of mass production. The 8L45 is also said to be very robust: Premium level wherever you look!
Compared to the original King Seiko VANAC, the presentation of the calibre is also new. No longer hidden behind a solid stainless steel back, you can now marvel at the discreetly decorated movement behind a sapphire glass back.
My conclusion on the King Seiko VANAC
Finally, the VANAC is back! Seiko is releasing a new luxury model that retains the charm of the original but transports it into the 2020s in a contemporary way. Instead of emulating the iconic model in every respect, it demonstrates the courage to change. This is demonstrated by the enlarged case, the advanced movement and the high-quality sapphire crystal, which more than do justice to the premium label. It doesn’t always have to be tradition at any price.
Nevertheless, you can recognise at first glance that the King Seiko VANAC comes from Japan. The design is incomparably Far Eastern, unique and timeless. Both vintage fans and newcomers will find something to their taste. If that doesn’t make you want to pay a visit to the cosmopolitan city of Tokyo…
All King Seiko VANAC references are priced at 3,400.00 euros. A speciality is the ‘Seiko Exclusive Edition’ model (SLA091), which is the only reference only available in Seiko boutiques.
I have linked all further information on the King Seiko VANAC and watch tests on other Seiko models below!
More about Seiko and the King Seiko VANAC
My reference model in the shop
Even more watch reviews with Seiko in my blog
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